How To Stain a Fiberglass Door
When we start renovating our home, we mostly think about changing the interior. Very often we forget one of the most important details in our home, and that is the front and interior doors that capture the most attention. To save the family budget, a more cost-effective and economical option would not be a replacement, but staining an old door. To do this, you need to know the staining procedure, especially for fiberglass doors, to avoid any difficulties. Once you read our How To Stain a Fiberglass Door guide, you will be ready to stain not just fiberglass, but any kind of door in your home!
Recommendations before you start staining:
- Mask off a 6 x 6 inch area of the door and go through the complete stain application process. This will allow you to practice your technique and also get the color tone that you want. A stain kit can achieve a wide range depth of tones based upon the amount of grain filler left on and the number of topcoats applied. After you have achieved the desired finish in the test area, wipe off the stain with TruCoat cleaner.
- Remove the door from the door frame and apply the stain with the door lying flat.
- Do not apply TruCoat in full sun. Full sun will cause the stain to dry too quickly and not provide enough work time to achieve the correct finish
- The below instructions assume the door is a new door that has never been finished. If the door was previously finished, then the preexisting finish needs to be stripped and the paint stripper must be completely removed from the door slab before starting the Application Process. Failure to clean the paint stripper off the door will cause adhesion failure.
How To Stain a Fiberglass Door?
Remove your door from the door frame and lay the door flat. It is a good practice to remove the door hardware as it will make the application process easier, but is not required.
If your door has glass, mask off the glass with painters tape. (Figure 1)
Scotch brite all surfaces that will be stained with the supplied green scotch brite pad. (Figure 2)
Blow off or wipe off the dust on the door.
Open the container of TruCoat Cleaner and dip the supplied lint free rag into the cleaner. Ring out excess cleaner from the rag. Wipe the surfaces clean with the damp rag. (Figure 3) Apply more cleaner to the rag as needed. The combination of the cleaner and scotch brite pad helps remove oils and other contaminants that may affect adhesion.
After all surfaces have been cleaned, wipe off the excess cleaner with the second supplied lint free rag. (Figure 3) Wait 3 minutes for the cleaner to fully evaporate before moving on to step 7.
Open up the pint container labeled TruCoat – Grain and apply the grain filler to the door with the supplied foam brush. (Figure 4) Start in the deeper/low contour areas of the door and glass edges as these areas will have some pooling if too much material is applied. Soak up the excess grain filler with the foam brush and apply elsewhere on the door. Wrap the foam brush in plastic so it does not dry out.
Take the white painters cloth and apply some water to it. Wipe the grain filler off the door. It is up to your personal preference how much grain filler you remove. The less you remove, the darker your door will be and will show the graining of the door differently. (Figure 5) If the grain filler is not wiping off smoothly, make the rag wetter with more water.
Figure 6 shows what the door may look like after wiping off the grain filler. Wait 5 to 10 minutes before applying the TruCoat – Topcoat.
Apply the TruCoat – Topcoat with the second foam brush or your HVLP spray gun. Apply the top coat in the same direction as the wood grain. A minimum of two coats or 3.5 mils wet film thickness are required to achieve a proper finish. (Figure 7)
If applying with an HVLP gun, your gun should have a 1.9 tip or larger. DO NOT WATER DOWN THE STAIN.
Additional coats of topcoat may be applied if you want to achieve a darker finish.
After you have finished applying the topcoat, remove the painters tape. Wait at least 30 minutes to flip the door on the other side if you are resting the stained surfaces on saw horses or other material support stands. Be sure to protect the freshly stained door from rough surfaces with a towel or similar soft material to prevent scratching.
The door will be dry to the touch and ready to rehang 30 minutes after your final coat. Full cure is not achieved for 5 to 30 days depending upon heat and humidity.
Without a doubt, among all paints we evaluated for our fiberglass door manufacturing company, TruCoat had the best results!
We were looking for an environmentally friendly, single component water based paint that was super durable, had great adhesion and laid down smooth. Based upon our evaluation we selected TruCoat 623. It was much more environmentally friendly than Sherwin Williams Polane 2K and is a single component and TruCoat had better adhesion than Aquasurtech D200 and was priced better.